California Soul

by G. Sax

The title anthem has been taking up a sizable chunk of my brain since the Dockers “Work. Weekend. Dress. Golf.” ad campaign has been playing full steam around here. “California Soul” by Marlena Shaw is so freakin’ awesome I could just spit. It’s my current #1 (yes, I still keep track) and I play it all the time. Including right now.

I love my home and my hometown quite a bit these days. I love St. Paul. I love living in my childhood neighborhood again. It’s all so familiar and, oh, so unexpectedly different at the same time. I feel a sense of purpose raining all over me like Shake n’ Bake that I haven’t felt since my arrival in San Francisco in 2000, the featured city in the Dockers ad.

Sweeping camera zooms onto Market, the GG, and Marin, with a final pullaway from the ferry building toward the East Bay make me homesick for the place. I’ve been wanting to get my travel on of late, but SF is just a wee bit out of reach so I’m going to soak in the culture of another great city, Chicago, in the meantime. But I’m ready to go back to SF and see what kind of trouble I can stir up sometime very soon.

I once wrote a layperson’s tour guide to San Francisco for a colleague visiting from Michigan. I’ve been wanting to share it somewhere, and this seems like as good a place as any. I’d do up a Vallejo Tourist Guide, but I’m pissed off at that place. Vallejo straight declared bankruptcy. It was one of the most dysfunctional, mismanaged cities I’d ever been a part of (and that includes Milwaukee and Baltimore, people), and I shouldn’t be shocked that it came to this.

An “Insider” Tourist Guide of SF from a Guy in MN
I lived in the Bay Area for six years. Loved it. Hated the cost. Hated the traffic. But I’d live there again under the right circumstances. I learned a few sweet things about The City (don’t call it Frisco) that tourists might appreciate. Don’t buy a book. They’re not as fun to read as I am.

And here’s an up-front tip for any city you go to. Maps are plentiful and free at both staffed tourism offices and rental car places. I tend to stop at one or the other before I explore any city, and I’m always thankful that I did. Usually you can learn a good portion of a city by studying a map while your travel partner takes a shower. You heard it here first!

Okay, on to the San Fransciso tourist’s guide.

Alcatraz (duh!): Get the audio tour; it’s worth the extra money.

Fisherman’s Wharf: Sea lions, Pier 39, seafood, silver guys, dudes painting amazing pictures with spray paint and fire to a techno, boombox beat…you can’t do SF without a visit here. If you do a lot of wandering around The Wharf, beware the guy hiding behind the tree branch.

Union Square: Shopping! Capitalism! City life! I think the visit to the Cheesecake Factory atop Macy’s is worth it. You feel like you’re somewhere special.

Ghirardelli Square: Mmmm, chocolate; beautiful architecture; great photo opportunities of the GG, Alcatraz, and The Bay. If you’re interested in a stiff (as in whiskified), caffeinated drink, stop at Buena Vista for the world famous Irish coffee. You’ve never had anything like it, I promise you.

North Beach: Italian restaurants as far as the eyes can see; if you love garlic, try The Stinking Rose. Broadway and Columbus gets a little wild late at night, but you’ll enjoy Columbus Ave. and perhaps some sidestreets around Jackson Square right up through the dinner hour. I think this is my favorite SF neighborhood.

Chinatown: One idea is to do this on the same day as Union Square; work your way to the Grant Street gate (photo op!) of Chinatown from Union Square and walk up the street for great window shopping and people watching.

Union Street (as opposed to Union Square): More shopping! this time of the boutique variety rather than the big name brands at Union Square.

Haight/Asbury: Kinda cool but you’ll probably be underwhelmed. The actual corner features a Gap and a Ben & Jerry’s—if that gives you any idea of what’s happened to the area. This is a cool neighborhood for food. Kezar Pub on Stanyan features incredible buffalo wings and lots of sports TVs, but they don’t take credit or debit cards. Magnolia is a cool brewpub. Cha Cha Cha is a “happenin’” Mexican restaurant. Proximity to Golden Gate Park is a plus.

Golden Gate Park: There’s so much to do in here, it’s crazy. One definite highlight is the Japanese Tea Garden. You won’t see anything like this anywhere else in the country. Beautiful and unique flowers and trees. A simple, enjoyable, memorable experience.

Ocean Beach/Cliff House: The old Cliff House ain’t what it used to be, but this is still one of the best places to get your ocean sunset in (if it’s not foggy), get some good walking in, and maybe get some eats at one of the overpriced restaurants.

SOMA (South of Market): The Sony Metreon is just a fancy electronics-oriented mall, but SFMOMA and Yerba Buena Gardens are nearby. Go a little further south and you’ll be in the cradle of the SF Giants civilization; the restaurants become more sports-oriented and the park itself is all wow on gameday.

Streetcars: Long waits and crowded during the heavy season, but the “F” line in the Wharf, on the Embarcadero, and on Market Street are still, in my mind, one of the easiest and best modes of transportation for tourists. It’s certainly more friendly than the 15- or 30-Stockton routes (which both go through the heart of the city if you’re into the whole immersion thing.

The Embarcadero: Lots of people stroll along it on a warm day; if it’s cool when you visit, you may find it better to ride the “F” and marvel at its uniqueness from a window seat. The ferry building is a nice stop for coffee and light food shopping if you happen to be near it. The renovation has created a lively spot where once there was nothing for a former
boat commuter like me.

Crooked Street (Lombard): Take it or leave it; maybe worth a photo at the foot of the hill if you happen to be in the neighborhood; it is interesting, I’ll say that much.

Cable Cars: Take ‘em or leave ‘em. Riding them isn’t all that exciting and the lines can be long (maybe take a picture instead).

The Castro: Take it or leave it. Unique in its open gayness, but otherwise I find the restaurants underwhelming.

The Mission District: Take it or leave it. I know tons of people who swear by its nightlife and funky little burrito joints and sushi stops. If you want to go where the twentysomethings are loudest, ask around and you’ll find a party in this realm. Cabbing back to the hotel from here should be mandatory.

Weather Hint: Pack a light but warm jacket or at the very least a sturdy sweater or sweatshirt. Unless you want to be one of the multitude of tourists who sport an “SF” jacket that screams “I came unprepared.” You’ll see plenty of them. SF can be chilly at night (and often during the day); it won’t feel like Detroit, but it ain’t LA.

Fun Hint: March to your own drum. San Francisco is often best enjoyed at random. Start with an idea and let your spirit move you. It’s as great a city as you allow it to be.

If you decide to boat to somewhere other than Alcatraz, I would recommend the quaint and exclusive town of Tiburon. It’s just close enough to SF, and it’s just small enough to enjoy a walk through its historic setting, a good meal, a wine tasting, and an ice cream all within a couple-few hours. Many tourists like to cross the GG and go into Sausalito, but for my money, Tiburon is much better and not much farther.

Basically, you’ll never do all of SF in the time you’re there, but with these tips, you can sure take a big bite.

Southtown Boys

by G. Sax

The Hold Steady are alright by me. It took me a little longer than most to figure this out. I get all goosebumpy at references to Southtown, Lowertown, Nicollet, Lyndale, Hwy. 169, Edina, Bloomington, City Center, and so much more. Plus Harry Potter digs them.

Taste of Minnesota

Photo fun: Gina, G., Cheryl, CarlyGirl do YMCA

by G. Sax

The annual overpriced food and music festival moved to Harriet Island from the Capitol grounds, and a lot of people seem happy with it. I guess it’s okay. I don’t notice much difference in pricing and offering, but it’s not a terrible venue. It brings back memories of the old Riverfest, where I saw Thompson Twins, Sting, and the BoDeans, to name a few. I’ve also seen the Beastie Boys, Parliament, Smashing Pumpkins, and A Tribe Called Quest on Harriet, so that’s a decent musical pedigree.

This year, I accidentally caught the Village People. It made for a great photo op (see above) but nothing more.

I saw The Time for the third time in my life, but there wasn’t much left of the original cast. It lacked the heart of the old shows, but Morris is still Morris, and I still appreciate what he’s done for Minneapolis music.

On the heels of The Time was a good set from Tapes n’ Tapes. I’d never seen them live before, and I enjoyed getting the chance to do so for free. I had pretty good backstage views, too. Whether in front, behind, or somewhere on the other side of the park by the ferris wheel, the sound was great.

Both The Time and Tapes n’ Tapes went national following appearances at the legendary First Avenue in Minneapolis.

I was there.

Music of the Mo’

by G. Sax

Just an update of what I like. I’m no hip meter. Never have been, really. I’m usually a step behind, but I’ve never been accused of following the crowd or purposefully avoiding the crowd when we happen to cross over on something like Santana’s “Smooth” or the more recent “Crazy” by Gnarls Barkley. I’m real. A list of some bits of personal interest:

Jurassic 5 (featuring Dave Matthews Band) – “Work It Out” (so good)
Arctic Monkeys – “Fake Tales of San Francisco” (not as good, but good)
New Young Pony Club – “Ice Cream” (TV ads are better than radio)
Gnarls Barkley – “Smiley Faces” (now that “Crazy” is overplayed)
Kate Bush – “Pi” (3.14 never sounded so good)
Spoon – “I Turn My Camera On” (TV ads are hipper than you)
Badly Drawn Boy – “All Possibilities” (Target TV ads are hipper than you)
The Juan MacLean (still) – “Every Little Thing” (my favorite song of 2006)
The Juan MacLean (still) – “Shining Skinned Friend” (catchy, oddball, me)

Musicality: ‘05 Finish, Into ‘06

by G. Sax

Everything is better in song, except for maybe plays, because then they’re no longer plays; they’re musicals. Point is, I love music. I love to share music ideas, and I love music sharing. It’s a whole new world, better than the best days of MTV, and it’s streaming through your computer if you know where you’re going.

TV still plays a role, of course. I know I’ll own something by Taylor Hicks from “American Idol” someday, whether he wins or not (unless he fails to rid himself of his “Whoooo!” habit). Radio can be useful in finding new music, but, oh, so rarely.

I do, however, owe a radio DJ for my favorite artist of the moment, The Juan MacLean. If you don’t bob your head to at least one song on Less Than Human, then you are just that. But really you should be dancing, especially to “Give Me Every Little Thing” and “Crush the Liberation.” My favorite is “Shining Skinned Friend” right now. “Tito’s Way” is popular with the kids who like whistles and cowbell.

If you already like The Juan MacLean, it’s probably because you like their labelmate, LCD Soundsytem. And what’s not to like there? James Murphy is my peer and my juicy pear. Love that guy and the music he makes.

What about She Wants Revenge? Flash in the pan? Perhaps, especially after that made-to-buy album cover, but “Tear You Apart” may have been one of the freshest singles I’ve heard on the radio since “Underwear Goes Inside the Pants” by Lazyboy and “Down in Oakland” by The Transplants before that.

Speaking of Oakland, I saw Lyrics Born there for a free concert. He’s better than your favorite MC, guaranteed, and his “I’m Raw” was a runaway hit on my playlist for half of 2005.

You like musicality and thought-provoking lyrics in your rock band? Get The National into your iPod. I’d prefer if you started with “Secret Meeting” and “All the Wine,” but the others from Alligator are good, too. Special shout-out to the Karens I know for “Karen” and “City Middle.” They probably have no idea that I think of them when I hear both of these songs.

Prefuse 73 - “Hide Ya Face” (featuring Ghostface Killa and El-P). I don’t care if the album that went with it was uneven, this was one of the best singles of 2005. I played it as often as I once did “Hip Hop” by Mos Def and “Return of the Mecca” by Pete Rock and C.L. Smooth. I especially love the references to Iron Man / Tony Starks via the Ghostface alterego. While you’re looking into Prefuse 73, you should try out “One Word Extinguisher” and “Perverted Undertone” from his last offering.

Television Helped My Life: “C’Mon, C’Mon” by the Von Bondies got heavy into my head thanks to “Rescue Me” on FX. I would never have heard “Lesson No. 1″ by Viva Voce if it weren’t for the MotoSLVR ad frequently featured during VH1’s “Flavor of Love.” Thanks to Jaguar ads during SF Giants games, I now have mad intimacy with “Hardcore Days and Softcore Nights” and other tracks from I Sold Gold by Aqueduct.

Boards of Canada - Campfire Headphase. Paint impressionistically for an afternoon or listen to Boards of Canada. Surprising in its beauty, like Thomas Dolby’s Flat Earth or The Blue Nile’s A Walk Across the Rooftops. Maybe it’s too early to make such comparisons, but I was impressed.

“I’d Rather Dance With You” by Kings of Convenience was one of my favorites of 2005. The full album, Riot on an Empty Street, is worth a download if you agree that quiet is the new loud.

Leave it to a Headbanger: DJ Danger Mouse - The Grey Album (Jay-Z’s The Black Album mixed with The Beatles’ White Album). Bona fide metal fiend, Marty Stoppel, alerted me to this gem, and I didn’t stop listening to it for a month. Special love for “Allure” and “Justify My Thug.” Life Imitates Art: Jay-Z performs with Paul McCartney (and Linkin Park) at the 2006 Grammys. I bet Danger Mouse was standing tallest, and he was probably in the house with Gorillaz performing another infectious hit of recent, “Windmill.”

Kate Bush returned with Aerial and it was as though she never left. Seriously. The music is as Kate Bush as Kate Bush has ever been. And we’re all glad for it. It feels good to be young again sometimes.

Like with Her Space Holiday, a band that will have you journaling in a college-ruled notebook with a unicorn on the cover before you’re done listening to “Something to Do With My Hands” or “My Girlfriend’s Boyfriend.”

The Greyboy Allstars. I didn’t know. Now I know. Make sure you know before the year is out. I owe this discovery to a free ticket from a friend with jam band and jazz as primary influences. There you have Greyboy if you must give Greyboy a label.

Speaking of Greyboy, Elgin Park is the incredible guitarist of the band. You may know him better as Michael Andrews of Donnie Darko fame. No, he’s not the singer of “Mad World,” but he wrote the remake of the Tears for Fears song and the movie soundtrack that it’s on.

Big Media Noise but Worth It: Deathcab for Cutie, Kanye West, White Stripes, and Coldplay. They good. Go ahead and deny it, and I’ll shrug at you.

That’s my roundup for now. Use your Internet. Look some acts up if you haven’t heard of them. Don’t give up on new music. Be Ashworthian in your mining of new talent. Or be like his look-alike, Paul Shaffer, in your absolute appreciation of it.

“American Idol” still borders on farce with a pretty boy named Ace looking to go deep. But as long as Taylor Hicks is around, there is still musical strength in the most popular show on television. That little Paris chick is also the real thing.